Kumano Kodo

 

The Kumano Kodo is a series of ancient pilgrimage routes that cross several of Japans prefectures. These sacred trails connect many temples and shrines. Today these routes are still in use as they have been for centuries.

If you travel in the Wakayama prefecture I recommend you to visit the following site's:

 

Koya san (Mount Koya)

• Shojoshin-in temple

• Okunoin cemetery

• Danjo Garan temple complex

• Kongobuji temple

Ryujin Onsen (hot spring)

Hongu village

• Kumano Hongu Taisha shrine

• Kumano Kodo hike's

Shingu village

• Hayatama Taisha shrine

Katsuura city

• Nachi waterfalls

• Nachi Taisha shrine

 

Koyasan:

After arriving at Kansai airport we set out for Osaka. Since we arrived late there was no train going to mount Koya-san anymore. So the next morning we caught the train departing from Namba Station, Osaka. The Nankai Electric Railway will take you in a view hours to the base of mount Koya. A steep cable car took us up to the Koya-san mountain. On top of the mountain we jumped on a bus to our final destination at the Shojoshin-in Temple.

We rented a room for the night at the Shojoshin-in Temple. This Buddhist temple has rooms in traditional Japanese style to accommodate travelers. The stay includes a vegetarian dinner. In the morning a breakfast which is served after the Buddhist morning ceremony. We were lucky to be in the tourist low season and could enjoy our vegetarian meals privately in one of the large rooms of the temple.

The temple is adjacent to the Okunoin cemetery. This cemetery has some impressive cypresses that must be centuries old. They add to the mysterious atmosphere that this place breathes. Many graves are very old but Okunoin is an active cemetery where still new graves are build. At the end of the cemetery you can find the Toro-do the lantern hall. I think this hall has been the inspiration for the Japanese building in opening dream of the movie Inception.

Koyasan has several old temples of which i found the Danjo Garan temple complex the most impressive. The temples are a mix of Shinto religion and Buddhism. Until 1872 women where not allowed on the mountain a special temple (Nyonindo) was erected where women could worship. You can hike the mountain trail that women would have taken from the Daimon Gate to the Nyonindo without passing through the Koyasan valley.

At the center of the town stands the Kongobuji the head temple of Koyasan Shingon Buddhism,the temple has a very large garden the Banryutei rock garden.

 

 

Ryujin Onsen:

After staying one night in Koyasan we took a bus from the Ryujin company to Ryujin Onsen (hot spring). It took us several hours over the mountains to get there with this comfortable bus service. We checked in at the Kamigoten Ryokan. After a nice hot dip in the famous Onsen (just 1 minute walk from the guesthouse) we got back to our traditional tatami room to find the diner already being served. The owner explained all the dishes and brought additional warm dishes. Together with the view of the forest covered mountain and the river below our window it was a perfect picture.

 

 

Hongu:

The next day we took the same bus service to get to the village of Hongu. There we checked in at the newly build Blue Sky Guesthouse that i highly recommend. Hongu is a good location to explore several parts of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route. From here it is convenient to take a bus to a start point of a section and hike back to the village of Hongu. Hongu has a modern information center that can provide you with all information needed.

Hongu is also home to Japans tallest Torii made of concrete. But it is most famous for the UNESCO world heritage site of the Kumano Hongu Taisha Shinto temple. Unfortunately it rained heavily at this time so we where not able to make all planned hikes on the Kumano Kodo trail. After a view nights we moved on and took a bus to the coastal city of Katsuura.

 

 

Katsuura & Shingu:

The village of Katsuura is a good spot from which to visit the famous Nachi Falls. The trail leading to the waterfall is one of te most beautiful parts of the Kumano Kodo trail. Its stone pathway leading up the mountain is surrounded with massive old cypresses. The waterfall itself is surrounded by many Shinto and Buddhist temples. You can also find lots of (very touristy) shops and restaurants there to fresh up.

The Waterfall and the Kumano Kodo trail near Katsuura only took half a day. With time left we decided to visit the city Shingu its just a short bus ride. There you can visit the Hayatama Taisha shrine a large Shinto complex.

Katsuura itself is a small fishing village you can take a boat ride along the coastline which is fun. Other then that there is not much to do so we left Katsuura after we stayed one night in a simple business hotel. We took the direct train to Osaka.